If you’re a diver with a love for the strange, the rare, and the downright bizarre, Lembeh Strait in Indonesia should be at the top of your travel list. Renowned globally for its muck diving, Lembeh is a place where tiny, camouflaged creatures hide in the sand and silt, waiting for curious divers to discover them. Unlike traditional reef diving, which focuses on coral formations and large schools of fish, muck diving takes place on sandy or silty bottoms. These seemingly ordinary substrates are teeming with extraordinary life. Divers scour the “muck” in search of rare and unusual creatures, many of which are incredibly small and perfectly camouflaged. Think flamboyant cuttlefish flashing their psychedelic colors, blue-ringed octopus glowing in electric blue, hairy frogfish lying perfectly still, or mandarinfish performing their courtship dances. Every dive is like a treasure hunt. At first glance, when you descend it looks barren, with trash discarded and random junk lying everywhere, but upon closer inspection, it is teeming with life.

Our adventure began with a non-stop flight from Singapore to Manado. Arriving in the evening, we were greeted by our resort’s driver, who drove us about 1 hour from the airport to the coast. From there, a short boat ride delivered us straight to Two Fish Divers, our home for the next five nights. By the time we settled into our cozy bungalow and soaked in the serene surroundings, we were already feeling the excitement of what was to come. We stayed in a treehouse/bungalow with views of the ocean to the front, and a lush jungle behind us.

The resort included all meals, and they made us some protein filled vegetarian options. Our daily schedule was full, and basically consisted of dive, eat, sleep, repeat.

• 7 AM: Breakfast to start the day
• Morning: Two boat dives exploring different sites
• Lunch: A break to refuel and share stories from the morning dives
• Afternoon: Another boat dive to continue our underwater explorations
• Short Rest: Time to relax, edit photos, or simply enjoy the tropical surroundings
• Night: A night dive, followed by dinner to wrap up the day

This schedule meant we could maximize our time underwater while also having brief moments to unwind and soak in the beauty of Lembeh. I loved my afternoon nap.

Before arriving, we had a bucket list of marine creatures we hoped to see: flamboyant cuttlefish, hairy frogfish, blue-ringed octopus, mandarinfish, and the elusive wonderpus. Our dive guide was phenomenal, using his local knowledge and keen eyes to help us track down each one. We were so happy for every new critter we got to experience, and each dive had something cool and different.

One of the most memorable experiences was a dedicated night dive to watch mandarinfish mating. Using red lights to avoid disturbing them, we watched their tiny, vibrant bodies intertwine in a graceful ballet.

Every dive was filled with surprises: a kaleidoscope of nudibranchs crawling across the sand, bizarre and colorful fish that seemed almost otherworldly, and numerous octopus and cuttlefish performing their camouflaging magic. Each sighting felt like uncovering a secret part of the ocean, and it reminded us why Lembeh is considered a mecca for underwater photographers and nature lovers alike. I already know I will be returning in the future.

Night diving in Lembeh is a completely different experience. As darkness falls, the ocean comes alive with creatures that are rarely seen during the day. Our night dives revealed hidden octopus, cuttlefish flashing through the dim water, and tiny critters that could only be found by the careful light of our dive torches. There’s a sense of wonder and anticipation in these dives, the feeling that anything could appear at any moment keeps you on edge in the best possible way. Muck diving is as much about patience and curiosity as it is about skill. It’s a test of observation, a challenge to notice subtle movements, colors, and patterns. Lembeh delivers that experience perfectly. The strait’s biodiversity is astonishing.

After 14 dives over five days, we left with cameras full of incredible photos, hearts full of awe, and minds buzzing with memories. Lembeh isn’t just a diving destination, it’s an underwater adventure playground, a place where the weird, the rare, and the beautiful come together in a way that’s utterly unique.